Most swimming pool pumps include a timer to regulate when the pump comes on and turns off, throughout the day.  This is also a common point of failure in home swimming pool systems.

Many homeowners with pools call the company that services their pool to replace the pump timer.  This can cost the homeowner a lot of money on a project that’s perfect for the DIY person in your family.  It’s easy, it saves you a ton of money, and looks really complicated, so you can show it off to all your friends when you’re having your next pool party bar-b-que!

You can pick up a replacement pool pump timer in the electrical section of your local hardware store.  They’re just generic outdoor timers and come in various sizes and features.  For this project, I just replaced the timer that the homeowner currently had installed.  It cost $69.95 and the only other item you might need is new anchors for the timer/switch box.  I just reused the existing anchors, thereby eliminating that cost.

To start this project, as with all projects that involve electricity, you need to turn off the electricity to the item your working on.  We always recommend that you just shut off the main power switch at your breaker panel.  It’s better to be without power for a little bit and know you won’t get shocked than to take the chance that you shut off the right breaker.

Fortunately, with pools, you often have a sub-panel with breakers that just control the pool equipment.  This is a convenient alternative that works, perfectly.

Once the power’s shut off, you can begin dismantling the old timer switch.  Before you do begin, though, take a digital picture of the timer to make sure that you install the new timer exactly the same way as the old one.

Set the camera aside until later and start the dismantling by disconnecting the wiring.  This just requires a screwdriver to loosen the screws holding the wires in place.  Then, back out the screws that anchor the box in place to remove the box from the wall or mounting surface.

Next, begin to take apart the grey conduits at the base of the timer box.

Just using your hand, take these “pass-through” nuts and bolts and install them in the base of your new timer switch box.  You will likely need to “knock out” the holes in the new box for your wires to come through.  There should be pre-cut holes all the way around your timer box that just require a quick tap with a screwdriver and hammer to get the circular tab out of the hole.

With the pass-through nuts and bolts installed, you can now pull the wiring through and mount the new box to the wall (likely using whatever fasteners were used for the old box).

Now, pick up that digital camera and take a look at the wiring pattern.  Copy this picture as you install the wiring on the new switch.  Once completed, turn the breaker(s) back on.  You now have a new pump timer switch installed!

Do you have a threshold in your laminate floor that just keeps popping up?  In this post, we’ll show you how to fix that, permanently.

Laminate thresholds normally fit into a channel that’s been screwed or nailed into the subfloor.  Sometimes, people just pop the threshold into that channel without any adhesive.  Sometimes, they just use the wrong adhesive.

With the example in this post, the installers used regular siliconized acrylic caulk.  While this is great for filling holes and gaps, it’s not the best adhesive.  To repair the threshold, you need to clean the old adhesive material off the channel and the threshold to assure a good adherence with the new adhesive.  Then, apply the new adhesive (use a construction adhesive like Liquid Nails) into the channel.  Do not apply it to the threshold, especially to the “flanges” of the threshold, as this will cause the adhesive to leak out onto your floor and make for a tough clean-up.  When you put the adhesive in the channel, it will ooze out into the flange area without leaking out onto the floor.

To re-install the threshold, you just carefully place it back in the channel.  This may require a little force and you might want to use a clean towel on top of the threshold to prevent marring the finish.  Once it’s back in the channel, be sure to place something heavy on top of the threshold to keep it in place while the adhesive sets (generally, about 12 hours).  Again, you will want to have some sort of protection between the threshold and the heavy object(s).

It’s that time of year when people start to think about summer, mowing the lawn, and irrigation systems.  Well, at least it is here in Florida.

Getting irrigation systems in working order before the hot, humid days of summer roll around is generally a primary project for many homeowners in the south.  Things happen over the winter, the system doesn’t get used, and we need it for the summer months, so we start to fix any and all issues right about now.

In this post, we’ll talk about how to replace a broken sprinkler head.  Although we ran into a slight challenge, this is generally a very simple project for any homeowner to take on.  You simply unscrew the old sprinkler head (by hand) and screw the new one on — after wrapping the threads with Teflon tape.

Normally, that’s all there is to the project.  For us, we had a 3/4″ sprinkler head that we needed to attach to a 1/2″ irrigation line.  That just meant that we needed a reduction bushing that we show you in the video.

Material List

1. New sprinkler head — this will vary based on the type of head you’re replacing.  For this project, we were replacing a large area, rotating head.  Although we’ve used XXXX brand in the past, we decided to try the “K rain” brand this time, just to see how it works.  The “K rain” K8000 head was the least expensive of the large area rotating sprinkler heads available at our local store and it also had the largest maximum distance.  Cost: $8.99
2. Teflon tape — also known as PTFE tape, you will need this for almost any plumbing project that involves threaded connections. Cost: Pack of 5=$2.98

Optional/necessary: We found that we also needed a flush-reducing bushing that added $0.66 to the costs mentioned, above.

Do you need to replace your garbage disposal? Well, maybe not! A lot of people replace their garbage disposals when all they need to do is clear a jam or reset the electrical system. Every garbage disposal has a way to clear jams and a way to reset the electrical system.

Watch the video to see how Insinkerator’s are cleared and reset — most garbage disposal’s are very similar.  Before replacing that garbage disposal, check to see if it needs to be reset or a jam needs to be cleared.

As I mention in the video, this is a quick secret to using a caulk guns that people with years in trades don’t utilize or know about.  That’s not to say all, but I’ve taught this to several guys that have been working with caulk guns a lot longer than me.

Every caulk tube needs to have the tip cut and the seal broken.  Oftentimes, people will search all over for a knife to cut the tip and a nail to break the seal inside the caulk tube.  Almost every caulk gun, though, comes with a knife to cut the tip off and a poker to break the seal.  Watch the video and see how to do it!

In addition to the basic hand tools that you’ll need for home improvement projects, you will need some power tools to complete your projects.  Here’s what we recommend:

1. Cordless drill: This is an absolute necessity for every project I take on.  Whether it’s for drilling holes, stirring drywall mud, as a power screwdriver, bit driver, or drilling pilot holes; this one tool gets used more than any other power tool in my set.  I wish I could say it was my reciprocating saw (just because I love the pure destructive nature of that tool), but it’s definitely my cordless drill.  Years ago, I received a DeWalt cordless drill as a present and it lasted a very long time, in spite of drops, dings, and weather.  In between, I tried a lot of different brands and now I’m happily back with DeWalt.
2. Circular saw: My second most used power tool.  I have table saws, reciprocating saws, miter saws, jigsaws, and more saws.  This is just a quick easy way to cut just about anything you need to cut.  Of course, you need the ride saw blade, but we’ll talk about that in another post.  For now, just the basic blade that comes with the saw will work.
3. Random orbit sander: The only sander you’ll ever need….well, for the most part.  You might need a detail sander at some point, but my random orbit sander has worked for almost every sanding need I’ve ever encountered.
4. Jigsaw/Rotary Saw: I used to use jigsaws to cut openings in wood and drywall, but lately I’ve used my rotary saw more often.  The most common recognized name for rotary saws is Rotozip, but other companies manufacture them, as well.  You can pick up a jigsaw for much less than a rotary saw, but I think the price difference is worth it for the versatility of the rotary saw.

This is a good start to your power tool set.  Down the road, you’ll probably want to take a look at a router, mitre saw, table saw, reciprocating saw, and many others.  It can become an addiction.

We look forward to working with you and helping you with your home improvement projects, now that you have the basic hand and power tools.

Remember, if you ever have any home improvement or DIY questions, don’t hesitate to email me at Tim @ therealtimjones.com (remove the spaces — I have to put those in to fight the spammers).

There’s a tool for everything.  You’d be surprised at how many specialty tools are made for home improvement and repair projects.

However, the average homeowner just needs a good, basic set of tools that will satisfy your needs for most home improvement projects.

1. Screwdriver set – I usually use one of the multi-screwdrivers, rather than buying a set.  I have about four of them and have found that over time, the bits that go into the shaft of the screwdriver break and rust, easily.  You then end up with a useless screwdriver.  Spend the extra money and get a good set of decent screwdrivers that include some of the more unusual styles, like Torx.  Appliance and electronics manufacturers are increasingly using Torx and/or allen-style fasteners.  Personally, I like Klein screwdrivers.  They’re a bit more expensive, but worth it.
2. Hammer — Go with a ripping/framing hammer, rather than an old claw hammer.  I find that I’m more accurate with a ripping hammer (a ripping hammer has a claw that is straight, when compared to the curved claw hammer) and I use the claw for tearing and destroying more than removing nails.  Also, make sure to get a good quality hammer.  You’ll use it for more than pounding nails and you don’t want the head to come flying off because you bought a cheap hammer.  I like Estwing, as do most in the professional building trades.  In fact, that’s the hammer I have in my picture at the top of the page.
3. 5-in-One Tool — A 5-in-one (also known as an 11-in-one, 7-in-one, and so on) is a painting tool, traditionally.  However, it has a ton of uses and every toolbox needs at least one.  I have three at any one time.  You can find one in the painting section of your favorite hardware store.
4. Torpedo level – You can get a big, long, fancy level, but for basic home tool sets, you will get more use out of a torpedo level.  Make sure it has a magnet embedded in the level.
5. Tape measure – Get the cheapest tape measure that will do the job.  At least a 25 foot tape.  Spending the extra money on a tape measure is seldom worth it, especially when you cut the end off a $30 tape with your circular saw (don’t laugh, it happens more often than you might think).
6. Safety equipment - Eye protection, dust mask, knee pads, and gloves.  These will get you started.
7. Wire cutters - I just use my linesman pliers (see below), but you may want something more suited to stripping wire.
8. Linesman Pliers - You’ll probably find these in the electrical section of your local hardware shop.  I prefer longer ones (get the 8″ or 9″, instead of the 6″) because it just makes your life easier.
9. Pry bar - No need to be picky here.  You’re using this to destroy! Take out baseboard, 2 x 4s, and so on.
10. Open-end wrenches - These are the basic wrenches you see in everyone’s tool sets.  You don’t need to get fancy, just a basic set will work just fine to get started.
11. Combination square - What’s a combination square?  You might be asking.  It’s basically a ruler with an angled piece of metal and a level attached.  This will allow you to make a lot of precision cuts during your home improvement projects.
12. Pipe wrench – These are those red, adjustable wrenches you loved to play with as a kid.  Well, at least I did. As the name implies, they’re meant for turning pipes (or other round, metal items) to thread them together or take them apart.
13. Channel lock pliers - Channel type pliers open wide for big nuts and they’re long, so you have lots of leverage without having to exert a lot of grip strength.  These come in incredibly handy.  I think this is one of the top 3 used tools in my bag.
14. Adjustable Wrench - Also called a crescent wrench, this sort of replaces the open-end wrenches mentioned above.  However, you can seldom get them tight enough for those really tight nuts.  Then you strip the nut and sometimes damage the wrench.  I see this as more of a back-up for your wrenches.
15. Wood chisel – Here, I would really recommend a set of wood chisels, since you will want different widths.  You use these for shaping wood, but you’ll also notice me using them in lots of different applications in my videos, too.
16. Sanding block - Until you get the power sander mentioned in the next post, this will work for sanding all surfaces.  Just attach the proper sandpaper and go.
17. Awl – An awl gives you something with which to poke.  You will need this, periodically.

This makes up a good set of hand tools to get you started with some home improvement projects.  Next up, what about power tools?

Changing an air conditioner (A/C) filter usually does not require much technical skill.  Whether horizontal, vertical, or in a ceiling, changing the filter generally consists of unscrewing a couple screws (usually with nice big knobs on them, so you don’t even need a tool), taking out the old filter, putting in the new one and reattaching the panel with the two screws.

So, where do things get complicated?  Well, a couple areas can generate some consternation for the average homeowner.

1. How often do I change my air filter? — Ah, the age-old debate roars on.  Traditionally, the standard was every 30 days.  Now, with high-efficiency, better quality air filters, you theoretically can go 3 months, 6 months, sometimes more, depending on the type of filter you have with your system.  Ultimately, though the longer you keep a filter in place, the more dirt it holds, and the harder your system has to work to pull the air through the filter, the more dirt that may pass through to the system and your house, etc.  The harder your system works, the more energy it uses and the quicker the mechanical system breaks down.  Additionally, although slight, your unit will use more energy if it’s not efficiently pulling air through that filter.  Many will disagree, but I believe in the old 30 day rule.  For the few bucks that it costs for a good A/C filter, just change it every 30 days.  Keep your system clean and working efficiently.
2. I need to get that really “high-efficiency, no allergens will ever enter my house” filter. – Again, that filter may trap 99.9% of all allergens known to mankind, BUT – Did you see the big but over there? — but, this also makes your system work harder.  See note above on your system working harder.  I hate allergens and dust mites and all that as much as the next guy.  I’ve had my mornings waking up with a stuffed nose from the dust in the air, too.  I also believe there’s a happy medium to the filter issue.  Get a decent filter, but don’t go overboard and buy the end-all, be-all filter that doesn’t allow enough air to flow to your system.
3. Filters are designed with a flow direction. Many people don’t notice that big arrow with the words “Air Flow” written next to it on an A/C filter.  Yes, these things are designed for air to flow through them in a specific direction.  Take notice and install it so air flows correctly.

As for changing the filter, here are some more detailed steps for how to change your A/C filter.

1. Locate the filter. It will always be located on or very close to the “inside unit.”  This part of the air conditioning system is also known as the air handler.  Sometimes, the filter is placed behind a return grill (a louvered, metal grating that occurs near the air handler).  This is most often seen in apartments or smaller homes where the air handler is in a closet and the filter is integrated with the return grill in the door or ceiling.
2. Remove the panel: Sometimes this is a grill, sometimes it’s just a small panel (like in the video) — every system will be different and newer systems will be labeled.
3. Remove the old filter: Take out the old air filter and throw it away.  You won’t be needing it, anymore.
4. Insert the new air filter: Slide or place the new filter in the old filter’s location.  Remember, as I mentioned above, you need to make sure it’s inserted in the proper direction.  The air flow should follow the arrow on the filter.
5. Close the panel back up: Re-install that panel that you removed in step 2.

Now, you’re all done for 30 days!

Welcome to TheRealTimJones.com!  We appreciate you stopping by to visit!  Now, what can you find, here?

We’re going to help you with home improvement and DIY (that’s Do-It-Yourself) tips to save you time and money on your home remodeling and maintenance projects.  We’re going to be brutally honest with you on each and every project.  This means, it won’t look simple if it’s not.  Not like some of those home and garden DIY shows on TV, if you know what I mean.  We’ll show you the step-by-step process for getting a project done and let you know how difficult or easy each project may be for the average homeowner.

We’re also here to answer questions!  If you have run into a jam at home, let me know at Tim @ therealtimjones.com (of course, taking out the spaces — have to put those in to fight the spammers) and I’ll help you out with your project.  Want me to do a specific project?  Let me know!  I’m here to help!  I love home improvement and DIY! You can click on the Ask Tim link on the bottom left of this page to send you directly to an email to me and ask me any question you have about home improvement and DIY.  I’ll even help you out if you want to know more about how I take my videos, photos, and so on, as I’m a bit of a technical geek, too.

What qualifies me to help you?  Well, take a look at my “About” page and you’ll see that I have extensive experience in the construction field from basic home improvement DIY projects to theme park construction to luxury condominiums to distribution centers and freezers.  I have a long and varied background in construction and home improvement that began as a very small child.  I love it!  It’s part of who I am and I love to share that passion with others.

For those of you coming over from the old site, I really appreciate your loyal readership and hope you’ll join me for this adventure, as well.  I have some goodies for you, if you stick around.

If not, that’s OK, too!  I will be moving everything that was on TheRealTimJones.com to a new site focused just on affiliate marketing and online business called BoostAffiliateMarketing.com I will be continuing to post on these topics at that location, just not as frequently as I used to.  This new adventure will be my primary focus.  Currently having some issues with moving that over to another domain, so if anyone’s available to help, I’d welcome it!

I encourage you to subscribe to our YouTube channel at http://www.youtube.com/user/TheRealTimJones I will be posting all our videos to that channel.  Most of them will end up as posts on here, but there will be a few that just remain on YouTube, so you might want to subscribe to see them all.  Also, follow me on Twitter at http://twitter.com/TheRealTimJones