For the most part, the only time you’ll use square yards is to measure and order carpeting.  Although it may sound complicated, square yards is pretty simple.

You just take your square feet measurement and multiply it by a conversion factor.  In the case of square yards, you just multiply your square foot measurement by 0.111111.

As an example, 550 square feet X 0.11111 = 61.1 square yards.  Remember, when ordering carpeting for your DIY home improvement project, you need to order in full amounts and account for waste.  So, in this case, you would order about 70 square yards (61.1 X 1.15 = 70.1 square yards).

You can also take your square foot measurement and divide it by 9  (There’s 9 square feet in 1 square yard).  This is a bit easier to remember and calculate.

We use cubic yards for volume measurements, typically concrete, but also soil.  For this post, we’ll just use concrete as the reference, as soil can get pretty complicated — we could spend a month on posts about soil measurements.

To determine the number of cubic yards of concrete you need for the concrete item you need, you simply determine the volume in feet and divide by 27.  So, for a 4″ thick concrete patio or slab that’s 10′ by 12′, you would first convert the thickness to a foot measurement by dividing by 12 — 4/12′ = .33′.  Now, multiply 10′ x 12′ x .333′ = 40 cubic feet Now, you need to divide by 27 (the number of cubic feet in a cubic yard) — 40/27 = 1.48 cubic yards.

Don’t forget to divide by 27!!  It happens more frequently than you might think and then you’d end up with 40 cubic yards of concrete, rather than the 1.48 that you actually need!

For slabs, it’s pretty easy.  It’s really an area measurement (just like we talked about, yesterday), multiplied by the thickness of concrete in feet, divided by 27.  What about for other units that are not cubes?  Nothing much changes, you still get a volume measurement in feet and divide by 27.  For a column, that would be Pi (3.14) x the radius squared x the length of the column all in feet measurements and then divide by 27.  I know, that’s a bit more complicated, but the formula remains the same — volume in feet divided by 27.

If you’re using a redi-mix concrete (bagged concrete mix), most of the bags will tell you how many bags you need for the concrete unit you’re building.  For example, if you have a 4″ diameter post hole that’s 3′ feet deep you need X number of bags.  However, when ordering concrete from a concrete company, you need to be able to order in cubic yards.  As I’ve mentioned before, you also want to be able to double check your subcontractor’s quantities, too.

Tomorrow, we’ll talk about square yards.

What is a square foot measurement?  Well, even though it may sound a little complicated, square feet is one of the easiest measurements, other than lineal feet or distance.  Square feet is a width multiplied by a length to find the area of a space or object.  So, if a room measures 10 feet by 12 feet, the floor area (assuming it’s an open floor) would equal 120 square feet (10′ x 12′ = 120 sq. ft.).

Common Square Feet Materials

• Tile
• Countertops
• Flooring (except carpeting)
• Drywall
• Plywood
• Unit cost calculations (this is a more complicated subject for another post, but just be aware that this is the common measurement base for unit cost calculations)

Conversions

Sometimes, with square feet calculations, you need to make a few conversions to get an accurate measurement.

• Tile: Sometimes, you need to convert a square foot measurement to the number of tiles or vice-versa.  Tile generally comes packaged in “X number of tiles” sets at your local home improvement store.  Therefore, you need to be sure you’re measurements all follow the same base; either square feet or number of tiles.  So, you generally need to determine how many square feet each tile covers to buy the proper quantity.  To do this, remember that a square foot is just one foot width by one foot length.  Now, just convert each tile size (in inches) to a foot measurement.  For example, a 12″ by 12″ tile is exactly 1 square foot.  An 8″ tile becomes 8/12 (or 2/3′ or .666667′) by 8/12′ = .44 square feet coverage per tile.  Now, multiply that square foot coverage by the number of tiles per box.  Now, divide the total square feet you need for the project by the number of square feet covered by box and that will tell you how many boxes of tile to buy.  Please note: This does not include the grout or waste!  Grout spacing varies, so be sure to add that to your measurements.  Therefore, assuming you use a 1/4″ grout line (pretty big, BTW), then you need to add 1/8″ to each tile dimension.  This really complicates matters and you’re better off looking at how much each case covers.  Almost all home stores make this calculation for you.
• Drywall and Plywood: Drywall and plywood comes in 4′ x 8′ sheets, so each sheet covers 32 square feet.  Therefore, anytime you’re measuring for drywall or plywood (height of the wall by length of the wall, less openings), you need to divide your total square feet measurement by 32 to get the number of sheets you need for the project.

Material Waste Factors

I’ll probably remind you about waste factors throughout this series, but for all material ordering and quantifying, you need to include a waste factor.  Essentially, this means you need a order or buy a little more material than just the strict square foot coverage you calculated in your measurements.  This covers cuts around openings, door frames, etc. as well as any errors you make in installation.

You can get very detailed information on what waste factors to use with which materials just by searching for it on the internet.  I don’t, nor do I expect the average homeowner to calculate waste factor’s for each material they’re using on a project and getting every material down to a very finite quantity.  Let’s leave that kind of detail to the professionals.

Generally, I’ve found 15% to serve me very well for my home improvement projects.  If you’re trying to stick to a very tight budget, you may work with a 10% waste factor, but you need to efficiently use your materials in this case or you won’t have enough to complete the project.

So, once you’ve calculated the square feet you need to cover, multiply that number by .15 to get the square footage measurement you’ll use for all material ordering.

Tomorrow, we’ll talk about cubic yards and when you need to calculate this quantity.

This whole week, we’ll be discussing various measurement techniques for your DIY home improvement projects.

Why Measurements Are Important for DIY Home Improvement Projects

Tile, carpeting, wood floors, concrete, drywall, countertops, and many other materials require quality, accurate measurements.  However, each material uses a unique measurement system.  For example, carpeting is typically measured in square yards.  Tile can be square feet or sometimes by “each” or the number of tiles needed.  You order concrete by the cubic yard.  It’s important to know how to measure and quantify the material your using for your home improvement project.

More specifically, you need to understand how to take accurate measurements for the following reasons.

• Double-check your contractor: Suppose you hire a contractor to help you with your DIY home improvement project.  You need to create your own estimate of the quantity of material to compare to what the contractor charges you for material.  Of course, it helps to understand unit costs of materials, but it’s not necessary.  Your number and the contractor’s number will never be the same, but if the contractor’s charging you for twice as much material as you estimated, there needs to be an explanation for why.  Maybe you missed an entire section of material (I’ve missed flooring tile for an entire bathroom remodel).  Maybe the contractor accidentally doubled the quantity take-off.  Regardless of the reason, if you have your own estimate of the amount of materials, you can better assess the costs and budget for your project.
• Ordering materials: Even when doing your own home improvement projects, you need to accurately measure the quantity of material you need to buy/order from the home improvement store.  There will always be a “waste factor” calculated into your figure (we’ll talk in more detail about waste factors for the rest of the week), so you will have enough material, but not too much.  Some materials you can return and some you cannot, so you want to be sure you order appropriately and don’t end up paying for a lot of material you won’t use.
• Building forms and structures: When you’re setting posts for a fence, creating formwork for a concrete pad, or any other formwork or structure you need to know how to properly measure the form and structure; not only for size but also for squareness, plumb, and so on.

For all these reasons and the fact that good measurements form the foundation for any DIY home improvement project, we need a good, solid understanding of measurements.

Tomorrow, we’ll start with square feet and how to properly take square feet measurements and when to use square feet measurements.

Measurement Series Posts:

• How To Measure Square Feet
• How To Measure Cubic Yards
• How To Measure Square Yards

DIY home improvement projects require accurate measurements.  Whether measuring an opening, the length of a board to cut, or an area for material ordering; the importance of an accurate measurement plays a role.

To get an accurate measurement, it all starts with reading your tape measure, properly.

Tape measures often come with a “cheater” now that shows the various increments of a measurement in their fraction form.  However, not all tape measures have this cheater feature, so we need to know how to properly read a tape measure for our DIY projects.

All tape measures break down a full inch measurement into smaller segments, usually four.  The smallest segment is generally 1/16 of an inch, next is 1/8″, then 1/4″, finally 1/2″.Each of these hash marks represents a smaller portion of the full inch measurement.  Although the 1/8″ hash mark represents 1/8″, it also represents 2/16″ (equal to 1/8″).  Therefore, that smaller hash mark to the right of the 1/8″ mark is equal to 3/16″.

1/16″ Mark

1/8″ Mark

1/4″ Mark

1/2″ Mark

You always want to measure to the smallest possible hash mark for maximum accuracy.  Therefore, if you can measure to a 1/16″ hash mark, this is the measurement you want to take.  If you can only get to an 1/8″ measurement, go with that measurement.  Clear as mud?  Yeah, it typically takes the first timer a little while to grasp the concept, but the more you use the tape, the more it will become second nature.  Sometimes you will have to add or count fractions.  Again, this will all become easier with time.

As I mention in the video, this is a quick secret to using a caulk guns that people with years in trades don’t utilize or know about.  That’s not to say all, but I’ve taught this to several guys that have been working with caulk guns a lot longer than me.

Every caulk tube needs to have the tip cut and the seal broken.  Oftentimes, people will search all over for a knife to cut the tip and a nail to break the seal inside the caulk tube.  Almost every caulk gun, though, comes with a knife to cut the tip off and a poker to break the seal.  Watch the video and see how to do it!

In addition to the basic hand tools that you’ll need for home improvement projects, you will need some power tools to complete your projects.  Here’s what we recommend:

1. Cordless drill: This is an absolute necessity for every project I take on.  Whether it’s for drilling holes, stirring drywall mud, as a power screwdriver, bit driver, or drilling pilot holes; this one tool gets used more than any other power tool in my set.  I wish I could say it was my reciprocating saw (just because I love the pure destructive nature of that tool), but it’s definitely my cordless drill.  Years ago, I received a DeWalt cordless drill as a present and it lasted a very long time, in spite of drops, dings, and weather.  In between, I tried a lot of different brands and now I’m happily back with DeWalt.
2. Circular saw: My second most used power tool.  I have table saws, reciprocating saws, miter saws, jigsaws, and more saws.  This is just a quick easy way to cut just about anything you need to cut.  Of course, you need the ride saw blade, but we’ll talk about that in another post.  For now, just the basic blade that comes with the saw will work.
3. Random orbit sander: The only sander you’ll ever need….well, for the most part.  You might need a detail sander at some point, but my random orbit sander has worked for almost every sanding need I’ve ever encountered.
4. Jigsaw/Rotary Saw: I used to use jigsaws to cut openings in wood and drywall, but lately I’ve used my rotary saw more often.  The most common recognized name for rotary saws is Rotozip, but other companies manufacture them, as well.  You can pick up a jigsaw for much less than a rotary saw, but I think the price difference is worth it for the versatility of the rotary saw.

This is a good start to your power tool set.  Down the road, you’ll probably want to take a look at a router, mitre saw, table saw, reciprocating saw, and many others.  It can become an addiction.

We look forward to working with you and helping you with your home improvement projects, now that you have the basic hand and power tools.

Remember, if you ever have any home improvement or DIY questions, don’t hesitate to email me at Tim @ therealtimjones.com (remove the spaces — I have to put those in to fight the spammers).

There’s a tool for everything.  You’d be surprised at how many specialty tools are made for home improvement and repair projects.

However, the average homeowner just needs a good, basic set of tools that will satisfy your needs for most home improvement projects.

1. Screwdriver set – I usually use one of the multi-screwdrivers, rather than buying a set.  I have about four of them and have found that over time, the bits that go into the shaft of the screwdriver break and rust, easily.  You then end up with a useless screwdriver.  Spend the extra money and get a good set of decent screwdrivers that include some of the more unusual styles, like Torx.  Appliance and electronics manufacturers are increasingly using Torx and/or allen-style fasteners.  Personally, I like Klein screwdrivers.  They’re a bit more expensive, but worth it.
2. Hammer — Go with a ripping/framing hammer, rather than an old claw hammer.  I find that I’m more accurate with a ripping hammer (a ripping hammer has a claw that is straight, when compared to the curved claw hammer) and I use the claw for tearing and destroying more than removing nails.  Also, make sure to get a good quality hammer.  You’ll use it for more than pounding nails and you don’t want the head to come flying off because you bought a cheap hammer.  I like Estwing, as do most in the professional building trades.  In fact, that’s the hammer I have in my picture at the top of the page.
3. 5-in-One Tool — A 5-in-one (also known as an 11-in-one, 7-in-one, and so on) is a painting tool, traditionally.  However, it has a ton of uses and every toolbox needs at least one.  I have three at any one time.  You can find one in the painting section of your favorite hardware store.
4. Torpedo level – You can get a big, long, fancy level, but for basic home tool sets, you will get more use out of a torpedo level.  Make sure it has a magnet embedded in the level.
5. Tape measure – Get the cheapest tape measure that will do the job.  At least a 25 foot tape.  Spending the extra money on a tape measure is seldom worth it, especially when you cut the end off a $30 tape with your circular saw (don’t laugh, it happens more often than you might think).
6. Safety equipment - Eye protection, dust mask, knee pads, and gloves.  These will get you started.
7. Wire cutters - I just use my linesman pliers (see below), but you may want something more suited to stripping wire.
8. Linesman Pliers - You’ll probably find these in the electrical section of your local hardware shop.  I prefer longer ones (get the 8″ or 9″, instead of the 6″) because it just makes your life easier.
9. Pry bar - No need to be picky here.  You’re using this to destroy! Take out baseboard, 2 x 4s, and so on.
10. Open-end wrenches - These are the basic wrenches you see in everyone’s tool sets.  You don’t need to get fancy, just a basic set will work just fine to get started.
11. Combination square - What’s a combination square?  You might be asking.  It’s basically a ruler with an angled piece of metal and a level attached.  This will allow you to make a lot of precision cuts during your home improvement projects.
12. Pipe wrench – These are those red, adjustable wrenches you loved to play with as a kid.  Well, at least I did. As the name implies, they’re meant for turning pipes (or other round, metal items) to thread them together or take them apart.
13. Channel lock pliers - Channel type pliers open wide for big nuts and they’re long, so you have lots of leverage without having to exert a lot of grip strength.  These come in incredibly handy.  I think this is one of the top 3 used tools in my bag.
14. Adjustable Wrench - Also called a crescent wrench, this sort of replaces the open-end wrenches mentioned above.  However, you can seldom get them tight enough for those really tight nuts.  Then you strip the nut and sometimes damage the wrench.  I see this as more of a back-up for your wrenches.
15. Wood chisel – Here, I would really recommend a set of wood chisels, since you will want different widths.  You use these for shaping wood, but you’ll also notice me using them in lots of different applications in my videos, too.
16. Sanding block - Until you get the power sander mentioned in the next post, this will work for sanding all surfaces.  Just attach the proper sandpaper and go.
17. Awl – An awl gives you something with which to poke.  You will need this, periodically.

This makes up a good set of hand tools to get you started with some home improvement projects.  Next up, what about power tools?